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Boredom on the Caspian – clip

19 Mar 10

I have finally gotten around to taking a look at some of the footage I took while walking across Iran. Some good, some not so good. Over the coming weeks I will edit a few clips here and there to give you a bit more of an idea of what exactly I got up to.

The first clip I put together actually covers my first day walking on the Caspian coast. I left the town of Chalus and headed east along the coast road, bound for Mahmoud Abad. A long, flat strip of tarmac bordered on the mountainside by shops, hotels, garages and factories. On the sea side, a never ending procession of holiday homes. Most massive, luxury estates protected by high walls and gates. Even blocks of vacant land were inaccessible, with chain link fences surrounding them. If I did come across the much wanted vacant land with easy access it was a dump - literally! I suppose thats what the fences were put in to prevent. Occasionally, squeezed between two mansions was a tiny, junk strewn dirt track leading to the beach. This is where your average citizen was granted access to the sea. A pitiful allowance for those not fortunate enough to own one of the enormous houses on the coast.

My first 5 or 6 days walking on the Caspian sea were not the most eventful or beautiful. I was just getting into my stride and was still probably learning to relax and enjoy myself. Trying to understand the people, trying to determine what I could and could not get away with (eg. camping). It was not the most memorable part of the trip but it was an easy introduction into the more difficult and interesting journey that lay ahead.



The music on the clip is from a guy named Helali. Not all my friends dig his music and indeed not all Iranians do. I used it on this clip for a reason. Some young Iranians I stayed with on the Caspian liked, from what I could tell 2 kinds of music very much. Music from Metallica, Linkin Park etc. and music from Helali. A curious mix, as it also seemed that at least in the past that Helali was favoured by the Basij. However, I think this is no longer true. In any case, these young guys were no fans of the Basij or anything normally associated with them.

Click for Rab

  1. Peter Gostelow commented:
    19 Mar 10 (10:58 am)

    Hi Mark, I spent 2 months cycling through Iran and fortunately most of it wasn’t as ugly as what you experienced along the Caspian coast. I’d heard it was busy and built-up. I have no doubt that your crossing through the Zagros mountains was far more scenic?

  2. Mark Kalch commented:
    19 Mar 10 (11:07 am)

    Hi Pete,

    The rest (excluding the industrial outskirts of Tehran!) was absolutely magnificent! So beautiful, even in winter. I cannot wait to return. Heard all about your current trials and tribulations mate. Heal quick and get back on that bike!

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